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Saturday 27, April 2024
 
Store Home > Heat Shield Products

Protect your investment. You've put hours of fun time and effort into your prized restoration project. The last thing you need is extreme under cowl heat or a too close fitting exhaust to blister or bake your plastic, fresh paint and decals.

Block engine heat trapped under your fuel tank. Not fun, but can happen on a hot dry day. You wouldn't want your fuel to boil or have your bike stall from vapor lock. Keep that tank and fuel cool with some stick on heat shield material.

Running an aftermarket exhaust? Getting more power or cutting down weight with an aftermarket exhaust is quite common. Sometimes the pipe or chambers are shaped differently, fit tight to panels or are made from a lighter hotter running gauge material. When you remove the heavy OEM exhaust and heat shields, the plastics in the zone were not designed to take that heat. You might want to protect them.

Keep engine heat away from the air box. You run hard, maybe you're a racer. A heat soaked air box may be those few lost HP you were searching for at the end of a long straight or hole shot time. Cool it down by sticking on some heat shield.

Common Case Example. Here is one of many areas where the OEM heat shield fails after 20 plus years. This particular plastic fairing panel comes from a 1992 Kawasaki ZX-7 (ZXR) 750 near the lower exhaust pipe just after the collector. Note the OEM heat shield has failed and lifting off. So we pulled it off in one piece. If you don't have any OEM shield still intact or it is too old and far gone to remove in one piece, use some thin cardboard and draw out a pattern shape that will work for you.

By laying it out on a new sheet of Heat Shield, we traced the pattern around the old shape then cut it out to size. For this particular location we had plenty of material left over for other areas of the bike. Or for more protection coverage, we could have made the piece larger than the OEM shape, (we likely should have, and maybe we will add more). We also offer 1.5" x 15' rolls for other area applications such as wrapping hoses. Depending on the type and heat rating of the Heat Shield you choose, generally the product is made up of layers of material. A high bonding adhesive on the under side, glass or woven fabric type heat blocking layer in the middle and a reflective barrier for radiant heat on the top layer. 1991 yz125 RH panel We couldn't save this OEM panel, pipe melted through. Double up layers of heat shield for more coverage if you have to.

Cleaning and preparing the surface for the new heat shield is an important step. First the regular washing regiment to clean most of the oil and grit off, but to be sure we also liberally used some isopropyl alcohol to thoroughly clean the surface of all oils or left over soap residue. Applying the new heat shield is a snap, just peel off the back layer to expose the high bond adhesive and place it on the surface. Rub hard and apply allot of pressure all over, as it is important you want the adhesive to activate and squish evenly over the entire surface. OK, all done and the plastics in this spot are safe again. Now moving onto find more places to keep the bike cool.


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Sale Items
 
1. 1970 AT1-125
  (Save $3.00)
2. 1970 DT1C 250
  (Save $3.00)
3. 1970 RT1-360
  (Save $3.00)
4. 1968 DT1 250
  (Save $3.00)
5. 1970 DT1C-MX
  (Save $3.00)
6. 1969 DT1B 250
  (Save $3.00)
7. 1969 AT1-125
  (Save $3.00)
8. 1987 DT200LC
  (Save $9.00)
9. 1987 DT200LC
  (Save $9.00)
10. 1970 HT1 90 E
  (Save $3.00)
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